In 1911 the S.S. Yongala
sank during cyclonic weather, taking the lives of all
121 passengers. The wreck remained undiscovered for
more than half a century, creating one of Australia’s
most intriguing maritime mysteries. It was positively
identified in 1958 and has since become a world-renowned
wreck dive, the best in Australia and among the top
5 wreck dive sites in the world. The 110 metre long
wreck lies in the middle of a flat, sandy shipping channel
in about 30m of water off Cape Bowling Green, within
the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.
The vessel was named after a small town in South Australia.
In the local Aboriginal language, 'Yongala' (originally
pronounced Yonggluh) meant 'broad water', or 'broad
wide watering place'. It was launched on the 29 April
1903, and left Southampton on 9th October. Carrying
passengers bound for Australia, it arrived in Sydney
on 6 December 1903.
This Yongala Wreck is a cultural landmark and because
of its important historical significance it is totally
protected by the Historic Shipwreck Act. Divers are
prohibited from diving within the wreck as the air bubbles
trapped inside would corrode the wreck. Also altering
or removing artefacts is strictly prohibited. As a result,
wreckage such as chairs, port holes, lights, bottles
and human remains are still visible, providing for a
fascinating dive.
The Yongala sank in 1911, but despite its age, it is
in great condition. The hull and deck are completely
intact and you are able to see the rudder, the aft and
forward masts, engine and steam rooms, toilets, port-holes
and most of the name, Yongala.
The wreck is covered by a fantastic variety of brightly
colored soft and hard corals, hydroids and sea fans,
and due to its isolation, being the only solid structure
to be found over a large expanse of sandy bottom, it
provides a protective shelter for an incredible variety
of native marine life. Some of the marine life you can
expect to see include large pelagics like barracuda
and sharks.
If you are a diving enthusiast you must experience
the S.S. Yongala, it will leave you with memories that
will remain forever. It’s certainly a dive experience
you will never forget.
The Mystery
The Yongala is surrounded by
mystery as to how it surrended to the sea
and we will never know exactly what happened
but research indicates the vessel was steaming
and the fact that no life rafts or life saving
equipment were found indicated the fate of
the Yongala was sudden and fatal.
Here are some theories and observations
made from experienced coastal Captains familiar
with the area around Cape Bowling Green:
1. In continuing towards Townsville
and safe haven, heading into monumental seas,
floundered by the bow, after taking water
through the forward hatch and sunk
2. The Yongala decided to run
with the weather, broached because of her
narrow beam and lack of ballast and capsized
3. Any manoeuvre by the Yongala
away from the bow quarter resulting in a beam
on situation in these conditions would heighten
the risk of a capsize.
Wreck Diving
Australia's Great Barrier Reef
is known for numerous ship wrecks but as far
as wreck dives go, the S.S. Yongala is considered
to be among the top 5 in the world. The 110
metre 3,663 ton steel and timber steamship
sank in 1911 during a cyclone taking the lives
of all 121 passengers. The wreck remained
undiscovered for more than half a century
creating one of Australia’s most intriguing
maritime mysteries.
The wreck lies in the middle of a flat, sandy
shipping channel in about 30m of water within
the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. The hull
and deck are completely intact, great condition
for a ship wreck which sank so long ago. You
are able to see the rudder, the aft and forward
masts, engine and steam rooms, toilets, port-holes
and most of the name, Yongala.
Because of the historical significance the
Yongala Wreck is totally protected by the
Historic Shipwreck Act. Divers are now prohibited
from diving within the wreck as the air bubbles
trapped inside would corrode the wreck. Also
altering or removing artefacts is strictly
prohibited. As a result, wreckage such as
chairs, port holes, lights, bottles and human
remains are still visible, providing for a
fascinating dive.
Marine Life
The wreck has become an established
artificial reef with more varieties of coral
growing on it than most natural reef systems.
Everywhere you look is covered by a fantastic
variety of brightly colored soft and hard corals,
anemones, hydroids, a diverse range of crustaceans,
seawhips, sea fans and molluscs including giant
murex and nudibranchs.
The Yongala Wreck has become famous
for the abundant marine life which choose to
shelter among the structure. This is because
the wreck is isolated over a large expanse of
sandy bottom, and provides a protective shelter
for a multitude of marine life including a huge
diversity of pelagic and reef species. More
often than not you will encounter more marine
life on a single dive at Yongala than ten dives
on the reef.
Fish species include large pelagics
like big schools of trevally, queenfish, barracuda
and sharks cruising the wreck, and many other
species including giant grouper, maori wrasse,
bull rays, huge marble rays, schools of eagle
rays, stingrays, sea snakes, turtles, coral
trout, lobsters, and schools of colourful tropical
fish.
Migrating whales, including the
Humpback whales, can be seen and occasionally
the calls can be heard around the wreck during
the winter months.
Other fish species
include:
• Queensland gropers
• Queenfish
• Barracuda
• Mangrove Jacks
• Parrot fish
• Tuna
• Surgeonfish
• Batfish
• Sweetlips
• Butterflyfish
• Clown fish
• Cod
• Cobia
• Rainbow Runners
• Lionfish
• Stonefish
Transport
There are a number
of dive operators based in Townsville, Magnetic
island and Ayr which specialise in day trips
and extended trips to the Yongala Wreck.
Depending on what you want to
experience will determine what type of boat
you travel on. For day trippers, you will travel
on smaller faster vessels, and for extended
stays you will stay on large livaboards with
all the creature comforts. Dive trips to the
wreck vary in length from 1-7 days, with the
longer trips also visiting the Great Barrier
Reef that lies further offshore, or heading
out into the Coral Sea.
Remember that weather, including
wind and tides will limit access to the Yongala
Wreck. Because of its location within a shipping
channel, it is well away from the protection
of the Great Barrier Reef and bad weather can
make diving difficult and dangerous.
Professional dive operators are
well aware of the conditions and will time your
dive according to the tides and currents.
Information
Best time of year
to go
The Yongala Wreck
is best dived on good weather. Because of its
location within a shipping channel, it is well
away from the protection of the Great Barrier
Reef and bad weather can preclude diving.
What to take
• Sunscreen
• Dive gear
• Towels
• Camera
• Swimming gear
• Food and drinks
• Spare clothes
• Sea sick tablets
Useful information
• Divers of
all levels are able to dive the Yongala, but
it is recommended that everyone consults with
the dive companies for any special requirements
when booking your dive.
The wreck of Yongala lies approximately
12 nautical miles east of Cape Bowling Green
and 48 nautical miles south east of Townsville,
within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. There
are many centres along the east coast of Australia
that offer wonderful scuba diving opportunities
but only Townsville, Magnetic island & Ayr
can boast the World famous dive site, that is
the wreck of the SS Yongala. Remember that weather,
including wind and tides will limit access to
the Yongala Wreck. Because of its location within
a shipping channel, it is well away from the
protection of the Great Barrier Reef and bad
weather can make diving difficult and dangerous.
Professional dive operators are
well aware of the conditions and will time your
dive according to the tides and currents.
The Yongala departed Melbourne on the 14
March 1911, with 72 passengers, including
two passengers who were to remain on board
after reaching Brisbane, intending to travel
to Cairns. It would be Yongala's 99th voyage
in Australian waters. The master was Captain
William Knight aged 62, considered one of
the company's 'most capable men', and had
been in the service of the ASSCo for 14 years
without mishap.
On the morning of 20 March Yongala arrived
at Municipal Wharf in Brisbane. After the
loading of passengers, gerneral cargo including
a racehorse known as 'Moonshine', and a red
Lincoln bull, Yongala was inspected and found
to be 'in excellent trim'. Departure from
Brisbane was delayed, but there was no hurry
to reach their next destination which was
to be Mackay. The following day Captain Gerrit
Smith of the Cooma overtook Yongala and later
commented that the Yongala had been steaming
easily as it was not necessary to arrive at
Mackay until the following day.
On the morning of 23 March 1911, Yongala
steamed into Mackay Harbour to drop off and
receive passengers and discharge 50 tons of
cargo, leaving 617 tons in the lower hold.
Yongala departed early in the afternoon by
2pm, carrying 49 passengers, 73 crew, making
a total of 122 people and was enroute to Townsville,
a distance of 208 miles.
No sooner had Yongala left, the signal station
at Flat Top (Mackay) received a telegram informing
of a cyclone warning between Townsville and
Mackay. Although the first Australian shore
wireless station capable of maintaining communication
with ships had been established in Sydney
in 1910, few ships carried wireless in 1911,
including the Yongala. (Ironically, a wireless
destined for installation in Yongala had recently
been dispatched from the Marconi company in
England.)
Approximately 5hrs later the Yongala made
its way past the Dent Island lighthouse, where
the lighthouse keeper observed the Yongala
steam into worsening weather. It was the last
sighting.
Further to the north winds were prevailing
from the south east to the north west unhindered
across 25 nautical miles of open water which
would mean the Yongala would be hit with very
dangerous cyclonic winds at right angles.
The depth in this area is relatively shallow
at 20 to 30 mtrs and combined with tidal run
would heighten the wave peaks and troughs
in gale force conditions. It is still unknown
exactly what happened but the fact no life
rafts were found indicate the loss of the
Yongala was sudden and tragic.
There was little Concern over the late arrival
of Yongala until three other ships which had
sheltered from the storm finally arrived and
the alarm was raised. As of March 26 1911
Yongala was posted as missing and The Premier
for Queensland, the Hon. Digby Denham turned
all the resources of the state over to the
search, including the public service, the
police force and shipping - which included
seven search vessels.
Wreckage was found washed up from from Hinchinbrook
Island to Bowen, but there was no sign of
the vessel or of those on board. All hope
had been abandoned by the following Wednesday
after scores of vessels had scoured the coast
and found no trace. The only body ever found
was that of the racehorse Moonshine, washed
up at the mouth of the Gordon Creek, not far
from Ross Creek, Townsville.
The wreck of Yongala was positively identified
in 1958, approximately 12 nautical miles east
of Cape Bowling Green and 48 nautical miles
south east of Townsville. It lies on its starboard
side in 14-28 metres of water and at 109m
long is the largest and most intact, historic
shipwreck in Australian waters.
If you are a diving enthusiast you must
experience the S.S. Yongala, it will leave you with memories
that will remain forever. It’s certainly a dive experience
you will never forget.
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